Retinol for Wrinkles, Dark Spots, & Acne

Dr. Amy Yuan

| March 16, 2020

Fact-checked by:

Marisa Garshick MD

, Board Certified Dermatologist

If you’re not already on the bandwagon, chances are you’ve at least heard a thing or two about the much-deliberated ingredient, retinol. On one hand, retinol for wrinkles has a reputation as a miracle worker for aging skin, but on the other hand, it’s said to wreak havoc on sensitive skin irritation. So, which one is it? Is retinol serum safe? Does it really work? We’re here to answer all of your questions and show you how retinol may just be the transformative ingredient your routine’s been missing.

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What Is Retinol?

Retinol is a compound that belongs to the retinoid family of vitamin A derivatives, commonly found in skincare products. You can easily get your hands on over-the-counter non-prescription retinoids, such as retinyl palmitate, retinol, and retinaldehyde—or snag a stronger version by prescription, like tretinoin (Retin-A) or tazarotene (Tazorac).

How Does Retinol Work?

All retinoids work by supercharging skin cell turnover, which can result in a variety of skin tone improvements, from diminishing hyperpigmentation and acne to boosting collagen production and softening fine lines and wrinkles. They are by far the most clinically studied and praised topical anti-aging ingredients out there.

How to Add Retinol Into Your Skincare Routine?

If you’ve heard that retinoids don’t make for the best night cream for sensitive skin, think again; it’s all about how you approach it. Retinol is one of the weaker retinoids available, which makes it a great first step for sensitive skin types or those who are just beginning their retinoid journey, as many retinoid products cause irritation when you first start using them. But according to studies, retinol cream works just as well as the stronger options, and although it may take a bit more time to show results on one's skin type, it does so without causing nearly as much peeling, dryness, redness, or breakouts during the acclimation period.

Benefits of Using Retinol for Wrinkles and Dark Spots

There are so many skincare ingredients out there that promise the world, but few of them come close to holding up their end of the deal like retinoids do. They are scientifically proven to increase collagen production levels, iron out deep wrinkles and lines, smooth out texture, improve elasticity, brighten dark spots, even out uneven skin tone, and even treat acne. Retinol, in particular, is both equally as effective and yet gentler than its prescription counterparts, so it’s a perfect starter retinoid.

Tips for Using a Retinol Night Cream

So, you’re ready to dabble in some retinol. Here’s what you should keep in mind when using a retinol product:

1. Start Slow and Low

Retinol is a powerful antioxidant, so your skin type may not be able to tolerate a high dose on the daily when you’re just starting out. The best solution is to begin with a lower concentration of around 0.05 percent and build up from there. You may also find it best at first to only use it two or three times a week (you’ll still see improved results!), and then gradually climb to daily usage as your skin grows accustomed.

2. Beware of Possible Side Effects With Other Actives

Because retinol is apt to cause some sensitivity, you’ll want to be careful using other strong products alongside it. For example, harsh cleansers and alcohol-based toners can strip the natural oils that protect your skin from reacting too strongly to a potent newcomer like retinol. Face acids like glycolic or lactic acid can also amp up any skin irritation or dryness caused by retinol. And lastly, vitamin C serums don’t work well with retinol, mainly due to the fact that they can alter pH levels, rendering both ingredients less effective. It doesn’t mean you can’t use all of these things; it just means you’ll want to strategically schedule some for one day and some for another (or some for AM and some for PM).

3. The Sun Is Not Your Friend

As if it wasn’t the case already, retinol exacerbates this truth, which is why you’ll more often find retinol in a night eye cream rather than a day eye cream. Not only does retinol make skin more sensitive in the presence of sunshine, but it’s also less effective when exposed to UV rays. So, always store your products in a cool, dark place, and make sure to wear sunscreen and sunglasses when you’re outside.

4. Moisturize, and Moisturize Some More

To mitigate the irritation associated with retinol product usage, stay on top of that moisturizer. By speeding up cell turnover, retinol notoriously causes flaky, dry skin. You may find that your skin tolerates a cream retinol formula better than a gel formula—but either way, mixing it with a moisturizer (or sandwiching it between two layers of moisturizer) is an excellent way to ease into it without sacrificing efficacy.

5. Most Importantly, Listen to Your Skin

Rules are just rules. At the end of the day, knowing your skin is what matters, and the best retinol night cream is the right one for you. So, it’s a good idea to discuss options with a dermatologist if you’re not sure what’s ideal for your complexion. And remember, listening to your skin also means checking back in every now and then, too. What worked for you in the summer may not work for you in the winter. Or if you’ve moved to a new climate altogether, that can affect your skin’s relationship to the products you’re using, too, retinol included. Just know that many over-the-counter formulas take twelve weeks or so to show results, so plan to wait at least that long before committing to (or ditching!) a new product.

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Ingredients

When to Start Using Retinol to Improve Skin

Knowing when to start using retinol is important. Read on to learn what age is best to start using retinol and how to use it safely.

Skincare

What are the Most Beneficial Anti-Aging Ingredients?

If you're looking for something to help manage signs of aging, these are the ingredients you should look out for in skin-care products. The best anti-aging ingredients will work with your skin type to reveal your inner glow.

Skincare

Is There a Difference Between Tretinoin & Retinol?

Tretinoin and retinol are both types of retinoids that can be used to treat acne, wrinkles, and scars. There are benefits and drawbacks to using both and PROVEN Skincare can help you find the right product for your skincare needs.

Skin Tips

Retinol Vs. Vitamin C And How To Use Them Together

Aiming for glowing, youthful skin? Retinol and vitamin C are your best bets. But wait, you can’t layer them! Learn how to use them together, the right way.

Scientific Citations

Shefer, A., & Shefer, S. (2003). _U.S. Patent Application No. 10/172,292_.

Farris, P., Zeichner, J., & Berson, D. (2016). Efficacy and Tolerability of a Skin Brightening/Anti-Aging Cosmeceutical Containing Retinol 0.5%, Niacinamide, Hexylresorcinol, and Resveratrol. _Journal of drugs in dermatology: JDD_, _15_(7), 863.

Bouloc, A., Vergnanini, A. L., & Issa, M. C. (2015). A double‐blind randomized study comparing the association of Retinol and LR 2412 with tretinoin 0.025% in photoaged skin. _Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology_, _14_(1), 40-46.

Lee, M. S., Lee, K. H., Sin, H. S., Um, S. J., Kim, J. W., & Koh, B. K. (2006). A newly synthesized photostable retinol derivative (retinyl N-formyl aspartamate) for photodamaged skin: profilometric evaluation of 24-week study. _Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology_, _55_(2), 220-224.

Varvaresou, A., Papageorgiou, S., Mellou, F., & Protopapa, E. (2016). Study in anti‐wrinkle activity of a night cream containing a combination of antioxidants, phyto‐steroids and acetyl‐tetrapeptide‐9 by biophysical methods and objective evaluation. _Rev. Clin. Pharmaco. Pharmacokinet. Int. Ed._, _30_, 67-70.

Zedayko, T., Miller, D., & Warren Wallo, M. (2009). A stabilized 0.1% retinol facial moisturizer improves the appearance of photodamaged skin in an eight‐week, double‐blind, vehicle‐controlled study. Journal of drugs in dermatology, 8(10).

Kim, H., Kim, N., Jung, S., Mun, J., Kim, J., Kim, B., ... & Jung, H. (2010). Improvement in skin wrinkles from the use of photostable retinyl retinoate: a randomized controlled trial. British Journal of Dermatology, 162(3), 497-502.

Creidi, P., Vienne, M. P., Ochonisky, S., Lauze, C., Turlier, V., Lagarde, J. M., & Dupuy, P. (1998). Profilometric evaluation of photodamage after topical retinaldehyde and retinoic acid treatment. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 39(6), 960-965.

Mukherjee, S., Date, A., Patravale, V., Korting, H. C., Roeder, A., & Weindl, G. (2006). Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clinical interventions in aging, 1(4), 327.

10.

See, J. A., Goh, C. L., Hayashi, N., Suh, D. H., & Casintahan, F. A. (2018). Optimizing the use of topical retinoids in Asian acne patients. The Journal of dermatology, 45(5), 522-528.